A great sauce does not shout; it persuades. Our moilee begins with first-press coconut milk, green chilli and ginger, reduced until it coats the back of a spoon. The tamarind glaze for our grill takes three days — soaked, strained, simmered with jaggery until it turns to syrup.

Then there is the mint chutney, pounded fresh every afternoon, and the brown-butter ghee we brush over everything that leaves the charcoal. Each one is made in small batches, every single day, because a sauce that sat overnight is a sauce we would not serve.

Ask your server for a taste of all four before you order. Choosing your sauce first is the house way to build a meal.